All parts of our coastline have their own "signature" wrecks, the ones that are easily accessible and everyone likes to dive. Off the East Devon coast this honor falls to the steamship Bretagne. Although listed as a First World War wreck, the Bretagne was actually sunk by a collision in fog on 10 August 1918.
As you near the stern the spare propeller is secured flat to the deck. At the stern a gun platform, with the pedestal still in place and the gun removed, is covered in plumose anemones. The 12-pounder anti-submarine gun was salvaged by divers from Bristol Aerospace Sub-Aqua Club in 1972 by cutting through the mount with explosives.
The recovered gun was later shown to one of the gunners who happened to be living in Torquay. On seeing it he is reported to have remarked "I never expected to see the bugger again, I only ever polished it once".
Descending over the stern reveals the rudder turned slightly to port and the propeller still in place, though a couple of blades are damaged. As with most of the rest of the Bretagne, the propeller and rudder are covered in a thick cloak of anemones.
Following the starboard side of the wreck forward leads to the split into the aft hold made by the bows of the Renée Marthe in the collision that sank the Bretagne. With plenty of light coming in from above, the inside of the hold can be explored and lumps of the Bretagne's cargo of coal found in the silt.
From the front of the hold the bulkhead has decayed to the point where it is possible to enter the engine room and swim round the top of the 3-cylinder steam engine. Exits are available through the sides of the superstructure or the open ventilation hatches above.
The forward part of the superstructure including the wheelhouse have been wire swept, though not that thoroughly because the remains of a large box structure still hangs over the side of the wreck.
The Bretagne has two forward holds and one aft hold. Continuing forward the decking has rotted away and the ribs have become detached from the starboard side of the hull, allowing the deck to drop almost one level so that it slopes across the holds.
Passing the forward hold still on the starboard side of the ship, a small curved hut to the side of the deck houses one of the most memorable features of the Bretagne, an anemone covered toilet. One of the rewarding thoughts for most single male divers is that here stands a toilet with even more life growing on it than the one in their bathroom at home.
Having examined the pipe work I think that the plumbing on the Bretagne was not that advanced. The toilet emptied straight over the side of the bow.
Other small huts on the deck cover a hatchway down below decks and the rigging store.
The anchor winch is intact, though at the bows both anchors are now gone. Even so, it is worth having a look at the outside of the bows purely to admire yet more anemones.