Do you want a dry suit, but would like a cheaper option than buying one new? Perhaps a second hand suit is the answer. Depending upon the condition of the suit, you could get a used suit for less than half of the price of a new one. And it need not be a suit that is falling apart at the seams. The best buy is probably a suit that looks really tatty, but underneath it all is in good structural condition. This has the added credibility that you automatically look like you have done a few hundred dives - at least until you get in the water. Read on then browse the photo guide to drysuit problems.
So what do you need to look out for? Start with the seams. Examine them carefully to see if they are falling apart. Don't just look at the outside, turn the suit inside out and look at the inside. Look especially carefully at any seam that is in a stress point, such as under the arms or the crotch. These are the places which seams wear fastest. If a dodgy seam is away from a stress point, you can always fix it. But if the seams at a stress point look bad, don't buy the suit. On a membrane suit, also look at the material either side of the seam. Flexing of the suit across a seam or tape can cause the material to wear out just to the side of the seam.
Examine the general condition of the material. Look carefully for folds which may be about to wear right through. Most suits will have some folds, but make sure there are no bad ones.
Also look for places where a membrane suit is de-laminating, nylon is peeling free of the neoprene on a neoprene suit, or neoprene is starting to disintegrate between the two layers of nylon.
The fronts of the legs of neoprene dry suits and the boots of neoprene dry suits are especially vulnerable to this type of wear and tear. If it is just the boots, you can always replace them, but anywhere else on the suit means that it is on the way out. The chances are that if a suit is de-laminating in one place, the rest of the suit will follow soon. While on the subject of boots, make sure the 'wellie' style boots fitted to most membrane suits are not badly gouged and have not worn through the outer rubber layer.
Look at the knees. It does not matter if protective knee pads are gouged and scraped, you can always stick another pair on. If the gouging has got through the knee pads to the knees of the suit, it does not necessarily mean that the rest of the suit is no good, but you will have to be prepared for extensive surgery to repair the legs.
Check the legs just above the knees. This is a particularly bad stress point on neoprene dry suits. Once you start having to fix splits in the neoprene above the knees, the split will just form again and again above each fix. The only solution is to replace the whole of the front of the leg.
The single most expensive component of a drysuit is the zip. A new zip will cost at least £60, plus the cost of fitting it. Inspect each tooth for signs that a tooth is about to separate from its neighbour.
When looking at the seals, bear in mind that you have to replace seals anyway, typically about every couple of seasons for the latex seals fitted to most membrane suits and a bit less frequently for neoprene seals. Signs of imminent failure are crazing of a latex seal where it is glued to the suit, a sticky or pocked surface, patches and small slits at the edge of the seal. Neoprene seals frequently show signs of de-lamination and splitting seams. A wrist or neck seal in a bad condition is not a show stopper, but it could affect the price you end up paying. If you are buying second hand from a shop, they may give you a good price on new seals.
Check the positioning of the valves. Some old suits put the dump valve in the middle of the chest - totally useless. Make sure the valves will not be obstructed when you wear your BC. Moving the position of the valves is relatively easy on a neoprene suit, but a bit more difficult on a membrane suit. Also see whether you are getting value for money on the valves. Does the inlet valve come with a low pressure feed hose, or will you have to buy one? Cuff dump valves are cheap and easy to use for novices, but most experienced divers prefer shoulder dump valves which are worth an extra £20.
Most suits will have a leak or two somewhere. If you get a chance to take it diving before buying it, evaluate any leaks carefully when you take the suit off. If you have not used a dry suit before, bear in mind that it could be your use of the suit which lets water in.
A more scientific method of finding leaks, and the only option open if you cannot take the suit diving first, is to use a sponge and soapy water, just like you would for a punctured bicycle tyre. Put the suit on or block the wrist and neck seals with jam jars, saucepans, footballs and pudding basins. Inflate the suit and sponge soapy water over it whilst looking for bubbles. You may need a friend to help you check some of the more difficult bits!
Leaks can point towards any of the problems already discussed, and they can point to material which would be better recycled as a tea bag. But for a good price you may be prepared to fix a puncture or two or accept the occasional damp patch.
New dry suits usually come with a separate hood, but a hood may not be bundled in with a second hand suit. If you buy a membrane dry suit you will also need to buy a thinsulate under suit to keep you warm. With a neoprene dry suit a one piece fleece under suit or 'woolly bear' is nice, but you can get away with a set of thermal underwear and a pullover.
A good second hand dry suit can provide the budget conscious beginner with a warm and cost effective entry into diving. A second hand suit in less than good condition can still be good for diving, whilst providing the DIY enthusiast with hours of endless fun and keeping the whole of your diving club amused.